OAKLAND RAIDERS JERSEY

Oakland Raiders

It's my favorite NFL team maybe beacuse of Cali, westside, chicano, hardcore shits or KJ. And now I will introduce some details of one my beloved jersey to represent my respect.

The deatils:

1. 100%polyester

2. Three different fabric panels cut & sew, poly rib x poly mesh x poly tricot

3. Woven labels

4. Satin care label

5. Hangtag

6. Authorized sticker

7. The printed or patched player's number & name

Zoom in the deatil point 7.

Now if you yahoo, ebay or even go to some stores, you could get some bad shits. However, the original player's number and name will be "PRINTED" instead of "PATCHED". The reason is if you print it, it will be more light-weight and more qualitified. However, it's super difficult to print on the mesh. There are so f**** many holes, but we have to print the number through every holes. Especially, when dealing the polyester mesh we have to use the plastic pigment based print. However the quality of this kind of print is sticky, so the print pigment easily stick the hole, cannot print through and become a clot. So, next time when you see the print on the mesh fabric, get your eyes look at the hole deatils, then show your respect to the print technologists!!!

RECYCLING IS TOO LATE?

Recycling is too late?

Organic fiber is a lie!

Humans keep wasting natural resources n' we are killing each others...

回收再利用已經太遲?

有機纖維是個謊言!

人類還是不斷浪費資源,其實我們正在毀滅自己...

有機/再生/環保產品細節度:

1.有機/再生/環保纖維常有:

a.organic cotton

b.charcol fiber

c.bamboo yarn

d.bamboo charcol yarn

e.banana yarn (上圖即是香蕉植物纖維的製程)

f.recycled fiber

g.plastic fiber etc.

2.使用有機纖維,那有機的百分比是多少?

3.使用百分之百的有機纖維,那麼打算加多少價格?

4.使用有機纖維,那染劑是植物染嗎?

5.使用植物染,但抱怨色牢度不夠?顏色不夠鮮艷?

6.整件使用有機加植物染,然後再用塑膠袋保裝?
7.真的關心地球嗎?

絕非衛道之觀點,

有時奢侈只是人性,

皮毛真的可顯質感,

要成就完美的品質,耗損(loss)絕對必要

要說明的只是大家最好知道--

我們製造出了什麼? (even we create a monster)

您們又買了什麼? (even you just buy air)

FLEECE SHEARING & WEAVING

Fleece-絨頭織物/刷毛布/羊毛

用途:常使用於登山外套的內裡,單件外套,圍巾等禦寒產品

現在使用的多為化纖(polyester 為多)或混紡即使是天然纖維,也大多是後加工(單/雙)刷(單/雙)搖床所造成的手感刷毛效果

不過現在分享original fleecee過程

製程細節度:

1. Shear the fleece 剪下羊毛

2. Card the fleece 紡紗前纖維梳理

3. Spin the fleece 開始紡毛線

4. Dye the fleece into various colors 染整所需要的顏色

5. Weave by the loom 放上織布機開始織布

ART FOR LIFE

What's design and what's art?

DESIGN:the act of working out the form of something (as by making a sketch or outline or plan); (?)
ART:the creation of beautiful or significant things (?)

However, we don't think there should be the boundary between design and art. A new idea, a good design, a fascinating product , it could be art!

And now we will take our experience of product development and quality control to share with you the details of some products. Then you will know more about how witty the designer is, how sophisticated the development is and why we think they are art!

何謂設計何謂藝術?
設計是指將一個主意或計劃轉變成具有創造性的詳細的施工或生產計劃或方案(?)
藝術是指創造出美好而意味深長的事物(?)

然而我們並不認為兩者之間應該有著界線存在. 一個新奇的主意,一個好設計或是一個迷人的產品,它都可能是一件藝術品

我們以過去產品開發以及至各地檢驗產品的經驗分享一些產品的細節,或許因此可以使大家更體會設計人的才華,產品開發的技術,以及為何我們稱它稱為藝術品

WOOL WOW ALIFE

最近新執行的project當中還是屬ALIFE NYC最令我stoked,而為了此品牌高價值感的風格,材質方面我們也特別選用了Merino Wool,雖然材質保暖度還是以Cashmere為最頂級,不過Merino Wool已相當柔軟不澀不刺且在保暖度也較一般的羊毛好很多

毛線材質價格細節度：
1.Cashmere喀斯米爾羊毛(100%Cashmere大約一球NTD1000~1300)
2.Merino美麗諾羊毛(100%Merino NTD140~380都有)

3.Wool羊毛(100%Wool NTD45~100)
4.Baby Alpaca幼駝羊毛(100% Baby Alpaca NTD130~160上下)
5.Alpaca駝羊毛(100% Alpaca的大約一球NTD85~110上下)
6.另外還有蠶絲、尼龍、兔毛及各種化學纖維

毛線顏色細節度:
1.顏色方面因為羊毛(動物纖維)的特性故絕對無法像化學纖維一樣白
2.白色方面除染色外,須加漂白劑作為顏色控制
3.手感方面可在染缸染色時加柔軟劑作控制
4.注意柔軟劑的量需密切注意以免產生化學變化造成色變

RAISED EMBROIDERY

3 Dimension/ Raised Emrboidery

意指立體的繡花,針對繡花的繡線材質多用為polyester顏色較鮮艷,但若指定要較平光matt時,則使用cotton的材質,價格相對的升高不少!

而談到立體繡使其突起之作法,則是將所需繡上的圖案底層先放上泡棉,(顏色通常分白色黑色較多),然後設定機台將完成的繡花版帶放入機器開始繡,最後將餘線剪除乾淨

該注意之細節度:

1.泡棉顏色通常分白色黑色較多,最好是以深色圖案配黑色泡棉,淺配白,以免泡棉外露明顯

2.使用於針織布或較軟布性時3d繡花其實不宜過大,以配合布性

3.過小之logo圖案不建議使用立體繡,以免泡棉不易切割而造成泡棉外露

4.使用立體繡最好需要求繡花針數要夠,才會密實包覆,但是相對針數越多成本越高

WHY FAKE SHITS ARE CHEAP?

品牌開發至生產ㄧ般流程,往往超過以下21道程序

A BRAND DEVELOPMENT:
1. Creative idea/ concept souring
2. Create the materials/ fabric/ accessories
3. Design artworks/ specs
4. Pass the info to the supplier/ factories
5. Coummicate with the supplier chain
6. The suppliers follow the instruction to proceed the proto
7. Send the proto to the designers
8. The desginers review and release the comments
9. The suppliers follow the commenst and improve the proto and re-make the samples
10. Send the revised samples
11. REPEAT THE PROCEESS
12. The brand guys will have salesman meeting with the buyers to discuss the PO amount
13. To the approval sampels and the brand people will place the order
14. The factory guys receive the order and proceed he preproduction samples
15. The PP samples approved, then proceed with the production
16. The factory gonna contact with the shipping, prepare the packing/ accessories/ trims.....blah
17. The QC/ QA guys have to do the in-line, final quality assurance
18. The shipping guys gotta contact with the shiping company how to ship the production
19. The brand people have to prepare the sell-in & sell-through plan, photo-shot, conatct with the media ..bla bla
20. The production arrive at the warehouse or the retail store
21. Sell to the consumer

假貨一般而言,不開發只拷貝
However, the fake shits, the counterfeiters ain't do but just COPY.
That's how they roll and why the price can be down.

If you respect the brand, the design or the art, don't buy them!

AQL2.5 TO AVOID SHITS!

CLOT x LEVIS x NIKE

CLOT 不用多說,LEVIS/ NIKE你不知道?

大部分的商品這幾年只要CLOT合作,幾乎都要排隊購買銷售一空,然後過一兩個月就滿街假貨

而現在看到的這條LEVIS501 crossover CLOT & NIKE & LEBRON JAMES, 應該是CLOT最初與LEVIS的合作款,因為當時LEBORN JAMES要造訪香港,於是LEVIS/NIKE提案與CLOT合作在雷射雕刻上JAMES的刺青,雖然當時並無大肆宣傳,也沒有現在華麗的包裝,但是它的意義非一般,比AIR JORDAN x LEVIS501 package還早大概約3年吧 .....

P.S特謝摯友DEREK-LEVIS贈

細節度:

1. LEVIS/NIKE/CLOT紀念意義

2. MADE IN PHILIPPINES

3.100%cotton

4.無布邊

5.膝蓋破壞圖案以手工製成,仿照獅獸抓力的痕跡

6.各處圖案為模擬LEBRON JAMES刺青

7.圖案以雷射雕紋製成

雷射雕紋

1.現在大量運用於商品之上,鞋子/牛仔褲等較厚之材質

2.若只想要在表面留圖案,則不可使用於過薄的材質,否則會射穿

3.非印刷故無法選擇所要知各色,顏色為雷色激光接觸物體後所留下之色澤

4.最大之好處之一為可於成品製程後再加工,避免圖案接合不完整之問題

CLOT website:

http://www.clotinc.com/

NITRAID BEANIE

NBHD.APE.SWAGGER.HP.FD.blah blah they are all dope and well-known in Taiwan, however don't ignore " NITRAID" , it's originally founded by the Japan underground hiphop group "NITRO MICROPHONE UNDERGROUND" !! Check out our their website:

NITRAID Offical Website:

http://www.nitraid.com/pc/index.html

The product details:

1.100%acrylic

2.Four darts top finish

3. Without side-seam

4.Circular knitting machine made

5.Three dimension embrodiery "NITRAID" arch logo

6.Different logo colors match different beanie colorways

7.Some embrodiery logos go with "Metallic Emb Thread

細節度:

1.100%壓克力棉

2.頭頂四角拷克

3.側邊無接縫

4.以圓筒針織機製成

5.立體繡花

6.以多樣不同配色繡花搭配不同色系的帽身

7.有些繡花圖樣是使用金蔥/銀蔥繡花線

FACTORY705新開發的nitraid是以匪徒形象及以真實"大麻花迷彩"的圖像設計的確非常具有與該品牌風格意念及強烈衝擊力, 於日本街頭也佔有相當多支持的一席地位.nitraid源於日本東京地下HIPHOP天團 NITRO MICROPHONE UNDERGROUND所設立的街頭服飾品牌, 原名為"NITROW"正式更名 nitraid後.由於獨到品牌形象及背景在日本的引響力及樂團勢力也逐漸況張.日本正統地下文化張力的品牌.

FACTORY705 ANARCHY SHOE

In fact, I love my country, town and family, I ain't dis government that much, but fuck the bureaucrats!!!

SSUR SKIMASK

Super exclusive project-- SSUR FREEDOM FIGHTER SKIMASK, only 75pcs

There are some special details with great quality under FACTORY705's monitor & execution:

1.100%fine wool

2.Solid red emb logo

3.Sophisticated jacquard pattern

4.Eye/ ear ring/ nostril hole with tonal emb outline

SSUR offical website:

www.ssurempirestate.com

SSUR創辦人RUSS以滑雪面具的概念呈現出SSUR 自由鬥士滑雪頭套,由FACTORY705執行製作

細節度:

1.100%優質羊毛料

2.密實的紅星pp繡花線

3.精密的針織提花勾勒出SSUR 自由鬥士臉龐

4.眼睛/耳洞/鼻孔以精確切割後加上繡花包邊

ALIFE LIKE NO OTHER

The story is recently I was sorting out the stuffs in the warehouse, and I found one carton marked “ALIFE Beanie with overall jacquard logos”, then I opened it…You can find the beanies are all destroyed with some holes just because they went with incorrect color emb logos(it s/b black), and that’s why ALIFE is ALIFE, they insist and ALIFE guys have creative minds. I believe a lot of people know ALIFE have had bunch of collab projects with some wicked brands, like collab store with LEVIS only for one month in NY, collab with WuTang, Asics, Futura, Kangol, Nike blah blah bla… But, few people knew “Insistence Attitude” is also their core spirit, like their polybag says ”Alifestyle Like No Other”.If you were the brandowner, will you ask to destroy all the production just down to“Incorrect Emb Logo Color”? or you will still sell in the market? What you gotta do?

ALIFE offical website:

http://www.alifenyc.com/

http://www.rivingtonclub.com/

www.facebook.com/srch.php?nm=alife+nyc

www.myspace.com/alifenyc

因為繡花顏色應該要黑色,加上ALIFE Matt的堅持,我們把此款白色繡花大貨全數銷毀

FRAGMENT X KANGOL

Recently I plan to make a move, so I review what's the need and what's not. I got millions of headwears, and this one is one of my treasure. Check out the fragment design detail:

1.Polybag: Kangol printed logo & Fragment Design logoThe quality of polybag cannot be too thin
2.Embroidery: The rear emb logo should be clear and neat, especially the emb outline of both logos should be "TONAL" Check the inner side, the emb backing and threads should be moved
3.Woven Label: There is one collab woven logo with nice quality,the edage of woven label, it CANNOT be sharp
4.Satin Care Label: There is one black sation care label with the clear wordings,check the white color words, some fakes will go with unclear and blur words because the background color is black, the words could see through
5.Label Position: These two labels should be locaed on central back
6.Stitching: They will put the fasten stitches to reinforce the inner peak
7.Metal Button: For the high fashion collab projects, there are always some special details, Check the inner metal button, there is "FLASH" fragment debossed logo!!

細節度:

1.聯名PP夾鏈袋

2.聯名繡花圖樣,繡花圖案底色配合帽身色且繡花背襯一定會清除乾淨

3.聯名織標,織標品質極佳,側邊切割完整且不銳利,圖案清楚無機台勾紗問題出現

4.鍛布面標黑底配上白色字體,字樣清晰且不漏底色

5.聯名雙標位置置中無差

6.即使內部車縫也很細緻,且加上補強的車縫線固定眉版

7.為增強商品完整度,還外加上烙刻痕的閃電圖樣於內裡金屬鈕扣

FRAGMENT WEBSITE:

http://www.fragment.jp/